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A day in the life of Albert Einstein in Prague

Updated: Aug 21, 2021



When the opportunity to visit Prague came by, my husband and I decided to put together what we called the “Einstein Trail”. It is a walking trail covering spots where Einstein used to work, stay and hang out with his friends. The idea came along after watching “Genius”, the TV miniseries based on the life and works of Albert Einstein. Most of this series was shot in Prague and other locations around the Czech Republic. While I got to learn more about Einstein from his early years through his time as a patent clerk, to his later years as a physicist who developed the theory of relativity, I also got a glimpse of how beautiful Prague was. So this was a nice way to enjoy the streets of Prague while retracing the footsteps of Einstein during his days there.

 

Self Guided Walk

46 Minutes

 

Einstein's Home
A plaque with a live size sculpture of Einstein’s head is on the front of the house.

Einstein spent 16 months in Prague (1911 - 1912). He lived in a 3 bedroom flat with his wife Mileva, sons Hans Albert and Edward, and a maid. The apartment building is located on Lesnicka 1215/7 (then called Trebizskeho Street) on the west bank of the Vltava River in Prague’s working-class Smichov district. The new building had electricity installed, a novelty at the time.


Einstein's Workplace
A black an-and-gold plaque with Einstein’s profile is inside the building in the entry way

His journey to work was just under 20mins - retracing his steps, he would cross Palace Bridge, walk through Na Morani Street, past Faust’s house, and then he would reach

Vinicna Street 7, where he worked as Professor of Physics at what was then called German University, now known as Charles University. As a professor, he was required at least on occasion to wear a black gown with gold ribbons and a three-corner hat, plus a symbolic sword. “Here Einstein’s humor was put to the test,” biographer Johannes Wickert wrote.


In his foreword to the 1923 Czech edition of his popular book About the Special and General Theory of Relativity in Plain Terms, Einstein praised Prague as the city that helped him develop some of his ideas.


“I am pleased that this small book … should now appear in the native language of the country in which I found the necessary concentration for developing the basic idea of the general theory of relativity, which I had already conceived in 1908. In the quiet rooms of the Institute of Theoretical Physics of Prague’s German University in Viničná Street, I discovered that the principle of equivalence implies the deflection of light rays near the sun by an observable amount,” he stated.


Cafe Louvre Einstein's Tea Place

His tea time place where he had drinks with friends such as Franz Kafka - budding writer and insurance clerk was at Cafe Louvre located on Národní 22 at Old Town Square. Cafe Louvre was believed to be the main hangout for Jewish intellectuals of the time still operates as a cafe till today. This cafe on its own has a lot of history. It was destroyed by the communists in 1948 and closed up for decades. The grandeur of any kind was not part of the regime. The cafe was brought back to life in the early nineties, wonderfully restored with large windows with early 20th-century decor.

They have separate Czech breakfast, lunch & dinner menus and are reasonably priced. So stop by and have a snack or even a meal while you are at it.


Einstein's Max Brod and Franz Kafka Hangout
On the outside wall you will find a plaque that says “Here in this salon of Mrs Berta Fanta, Albert Einstein, Professor at Prague University in 1911 to 1912, founder of the theory of relativity, Nobel Prize Winner, played the violin and met his friends, famous writers, Max Brod and Franz Kafka.”

Only the last place on this trail is no longer what it was in 1911. It was another hangout which was called the house of Berta Fanta, a “philosophically ambitious” socialite who held a salon above her husband’s pharmacy. The building, constructed in the 14th century, still exists; it is known as the “House of the Stone Table” (in Czech, “U Kamenného stolu”).

It is located on Old Town Square, number 551/17.


Einstein often gave lectures there, but he also entertained guests by playing the violin; Max Brod occasionally played the piano. Legend has it that one night, Kafka read some of his short stories while Einstein accompanied him on the violin.


His wife Mileva, had trouble adapting due to language barriers and urged Einstein to take up a different teaching job at the University of Technology in Zurich. They left in 1912. He said Prague was “So beautiful, it would justify living here a lot longer.”



280 views5 comments

5 Comments


rgengath
rgengath
Mar 23, 2021

Thanks Sha. Lovely pictorial guide for would be Prague visitor.

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mansor.sirun
mansor.sirun
Mar 21, 2021

Thanks for info sharing with beautiful photo. Bravo!

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Jayanath Appudurai
Jayanath Appudurai
Mar 19, 2021

A complex man's story told in a simple, informative & engaging way. Keep it up.

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Nirmala Devi
Nirmala Devi
Mar 19, 2021

Lovely tour! Thanks for sharing with those who can't travel.

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subhashinij
subhashinij
Mar 19, 2021

Wonderful! 😀

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